Toto’s Restaurant in Palmižana is an absolute must for all those sailing the Adriatic Coast.

I doubt there are many ‘yachties’ familiar with the Adriatic who have not dined at Toto’s restaurant at least once. As a hostess on a luxury yacht, Toto’s was always one of my favourite restaurants to visit and recommend.

Palmižana is situated on Sveti Klement island, which is part of the small collection of islands known as the ‘Pakleni Islands’ directly in front of Hvar; as such Palmižana is only approachable by boat (or water taxi from Hvar).

Copyright: Romulić and Stojčić

In 1906, a gentleman by the name of Professor Eugenio Meneghello bought 300-hectares of wild property on Palmižana and it has been lovingly tended to by the family ever since. Over the generations, it has been planted with palms, pines, exotic cacti, herbs and a various array of fauna. The second you step foot onto the island, you will understand exactly why it has been referred to as the ‘Garden of Eden’.

Credit: Palmizana

If coming from Hvar town by water-taxi, you will be dropped at ACI Palmižana (boats run every hour during the season), there are sign posts to lead the way to the restaurant – a mere 8-minute walk through a tropical paradise until you reach Toto’s. It is no exaggeration when I say that every time I make that walk, a new-wave off calm and peace washes over me.

Many people head to Palmižana for a day of bathing and swimming or enjoying a cocktail on the beach before heading into Toto’s for lunch or dinner. This is one of the greatest aspects of the restaurant – just how fabulously unpretentious it is. While it is always respectful to cover up – aka don’t walk straight off the beach in your bikini; it is more than acceptable to wear casual attire and sandals.

Copyright: Romulić and Stojčić

For those sailing, you can anchor directly in front of the restaurant and tie to any one of the mooring buoys available, enjoy swimming in the afternoon then get ready and head out for dinner at Toto’s at night.

While the daytime setting at Toto’s is the perfect, chilled, beach-vibe restaurant; at night, it transforms into a magical oasis, with the lanterns swaying above tabletops, looking out over the boats with their lights shimmering in the bay… there really is no setting like it.

Credit: Mario Jelavić

The first thing that struck out at me was just how large and spaced out all of the tables were, including a few completely private and secluded tables – tucked away in the lush greenery. As someone who has worked in restaurants I can say that the general ‘rule of thumb’ in a restaurant and particularly a seasonal restaurant is – pack ‘em in!! But, you won’t find that here, which only adds to the appeal; their philosophy is to provide ‘quality food in a relaxing and natural environment’.

The food itself is very traditional, with, of course, a focus on seafood. We recommend sharing a few starters, like ceviche, bruschetta and a tasting platter to get your appetites going before moving on to mains.

Toto’s is very well-known for its lobster, scampi and tuna; but as in any seafood restaurant, we recommend to always ask what the fresh catch of the day is first. Their scampi done buzara-style is a personal favourite, or the monkfish in white wine sauce. They also have meat options available and if you plan a little in advance you can normally order veal, lamb or octopus by peka (slow-cooked with olive oil and vegetables under the embers in a dome bell).

Credit: Tash Pericic

The wine list at Toto’s has a focus on predominantly Croatian wines and while you may not know how to navigate through the indigenous grapes, you can be sure the staff will be willing to recommend. Plavac Mali grape is the King of Dalmatian reds, so if you fancy a rich, medium-full bodied red, you can never go wrong with this grape. Hvar is known as the sunniest island (receiving approximately 2760 sunshine hours per year), hence it produces excellent reds, so why not try Tomić Plavac Mali from Hvar – when in Rome and all that. Whites to look out for are Posip, Grasevina and Malvazija.

I have never once had any guest complain, nor been let down by the service. It is friendly, approachable and efficient. In fact, once, I arrived to the restaurant with a guest whose shirt was completely soaked through, thanks to a speeding water-taxi, the staff didn’t hesitate in offering my guest a new Toto’s shirt (for free). In a heavy tourism-based market, it is genuine gestures like this which really stand out to me.

The restaurant itself can accommodate small to large groups. During the season, it pays to book in advance as the restaurant is no longer a secret and they host large private functions from time-to-time.

You can find more details on Toto’s Restaurant here